There are many different routes to the top of El Capitan, each with its own level of difficulty. Once a permit has been obtained, climbers will need to select a route to the summit. The first step in planning a climb of El Capitan is to obtain a permit from the National Park Service. In order to climb El Capitan, climbers must be in excellent physical condition and have prior rock climbing experience. While many climbers attempt to summit El Capitan each year, the feat is not for the faint of heart. The information is compiled from a variety of sources, and the ratings given are not consistent between source - so do more research before selecting a route! Those routes marked with an asterik (*) denote the five popular trade routes on El Cap.El Capitan, a majestic 3,000-foot rock formation in Yosemite National Park, draws rock climbers from around the world. This table is not meant to contain all routes established on El Cap, but to give a flavor for what is available. Peter Browning, Yosemite Place Names Big Wall Routes Overview 1, Jan 1955: 6.) And finally, Hutchings' Illustrated 1, no. (Clark, 92-95.)Īccording to one source, the original English name was "Crane Mountain," not for the reason given above but for the sandhill cranes that entered the valley by flying over the top of El Capitan. Galen Clark said that Tul-tok-a-nu-la is from the measuring worm (tul-tok-a-na) which crawled up the face of the rock to rescue two small boys who were beyond being saved by any other creatures of the valley. There is also a legendary explanation that is repeated throughout Yosemite literature. As the Indian reached a point a little above and some distance out from the cliff, he triumphantly pointed to the perfect image of a man's head and face, with side whiskers, and with an expression of the sturdy English type, and asked, 'Does he not look like Tote-ack-ah-noo-la?' The 'Rock Chief,' or 'Captain,' was again Sandino's interpretation of the word while viewing the likeness." (Bunnell, Discovery, 1911: 214-15.) "The famous cliff, El Capitan, is a Spanish interpretation of the Indian name To-tock-ah-noo-lah, meaning the 'Rock Chief.'" (Bunnell, Report, 1889-90: 9.) "Upon one occasion I asked, 'Why do you call the cliff Tote-ack-ah-noo-la?' The Indian's reply was, 'Because he looks like one. is To-to-kon oo-lah, the Sandhill Crane, a chief of the First People. ![]() The name was given by the Mariposa Battalion in 1851. Yosemite Climbing Link - info on permits, closures, safety, rescue, and good climbing/wilderness practices Everything from tent cabins in Curry Village to the 4-star Ahwahnee Hotel. Fires are allowed (but discouraged) at the summit.įor those looking for better (and pricier) accomodations, YCS runs all the Yosemite Lodging facilities. Climbers are generally not expected to have permits for overnight stays on the summit, but hikers coming from the trail are. You can likewise camp at the summit without need for permit, though this is at the discretion of the rangers. Overnight stays enroute on the walls are not restricted or subject to permits. Several class 1 trails will take you to the summit on a long dayhike, and there are more adventurous scrambling routes as well.Ĭamping is allowed at the base only in designated campgrounds (Camp 4 is the closest), fees apply. You do not have to be a rock climber to reach El Cap's summit. Water makes up nearly a third of the weight that climbers carry in their haul bags (or "pigs", as they are less-than-affectionately called). In fact it is the heat and dehydration that threaten the climber more than bad weather. The low elevation and excellent weather make El Cap a great training for more difficult climbs elsewhere in the world. Down below, tourists, friends, and loved ones park along Northside Drive and picnic in El Capitan Meadow while watching the climbers' progress through binoculars. Ascents have been made in as less as 2 hours and as long as 200 days, but the average party takes 4-6 days to make their way up, hauling 100 lbs of gear, food, and water for each member. At any given time from spring to fall, there are dozens of climbers making their way up one the established routes. ![]() Over 70 big wall routes have been established on El Cap's Southwest and Southeast faces, though most of these are variations connecting two or more of the earlier established routes. Called simply El Cap or The Captain, this immense granite wall rises 3,300 feet from the talus slopes to the Valley rim above. ![]() Modern big wall climbing began in the late 1950's and was developed into a fine art on its faces in the 1960's as climbers from all over the world have come to challenge its demanding routes. El Capitan is perhaps the most sublime feature in all of Yosemite Valley, and second only to Half Dome among Yosemite's most recognized features.
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